We went to Scotland on a family holiday this week (brave or stupid, answers on a postcard). You would not believe the number of puns you can get from the simple town of Ayr. For example, R: "You should have turned right there!" Me: "Oh well. To Ayr is human." I shall spare you the rest: if your mind isn't already overflowing with similar appalling jokes, you're no friend of mine.
Whilst in Ayr, I came across a marvellous whisky shop, Robbie’s Drams, and bought a bottle of Laphroaig quarter-cask and another of Smokehead. This article, or what remains of it, is to describe the Laphroaig quarter-cask whisky.
Should you wish to avoid the Flash-animated website, here’s a precis. Tales are told of a time when the business of Laphroaig was carried on less than legally and it was useful to carry away smaller casks when the Excise men were coming than the more conventional full-size casks.
Over the past few years, they have tried their best to recreate the whisky that would have been drunk as Laphroaig a couple of centuries ago: quarter-sized casks, slightly higher strength and an older filtration model.
The effect of the smaller barrels is to increase the surface area to volume ratio substantially, so more flavour will enter the whisky from the barrel. Thus, they bottle it much younger than their standard ten-year-old offering.
To smell it, a sweet smell hits the nose — perhaps toffee apple. On the taste, there is an initial earthy sensation followed quickly by a brief flash of kedgeree, leaving the smoky aftertaste of turmeric at the back of the throat. This is a much more subtle whisky than Laphroaig’s ten-year-old: thinner and less oily, and with a much more delicate, though still substantial, peaty hit.
Because it’s not chill-filtered, the whisky becomes delightfully cloudy when water is added. I recommend that you try it both with and without additional water: many of the flavours become more muted with water, but a creamy taste comes to the fore.
In summary: if you can get your hands on a bottle or two of this, it’s well worth doing so. An excellent whisky. I should also say that even if you've disliked other Laphroaigs in the past, give this a shot. It may just be your way into the other delights from the Laphroaig distillery.